I have a hoya for about 10 years. I don’t know if I overwatered it but the leave are looking limp and they are browning. I repotted it the other day and its not looking any better. It was a gift from someone who is deceased and I’m trying to keep it alive. Should I take cuttings and consider it gone? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

Reply

Hi there,
Thanks for your message and sorry to hear about your plant.
Your description does sound like watering, so you have done the right thing by repotting it.
As for what to do now; I would hedge my bets and take a couple of cuttings from healthy stems / vines, but also give your Hoya a few more weeks to see if it will recover.
You never know, it may pick up, but at least you’ll have a couple of babies if it does fail.
I am sure your deceased friend would understand – you are doing everything you can!
Please let me know how you get on, and if you need help with cuttings, this post may be worth a
read: Taking Cuttings
Kindest regards,
Henry
Molly’s Tropical Plants

Thank you for your advice. I took some cuttings, I think the plant is on it’s way out. I put the cuttings in water. That’s how I made the plant originally.

Should I re-pot my Hoya?

I have a big hoya plant in a pot. The roots poke out the bottom of the pot and you can see them on the top too. Do I need to repot it?

Re-potting Hoyas

Hi there,
it sounds like your Hoya really needs to be re-potted as soon as possible! Most Hoyas enjoy being a little tight-rooted, in fact this can encourage flowering. However, it sounds like yours has gone beyond that stage, so I recommend re-potting it into a pot that is at least an inch larger than the current one.
Water your Hoya well and leave it for half an hour so it takes up some water and loosens the roots.
Prepare the new pot – use a mixture of good quality potting compost and sand, along with vermiculite or similar to add aeration to the soil. You could also use one of the many orchid bark or compost mixes that are available. This type of medium also ensures good drainage, which is essential for Hoyas, as with many other tropical plants.
Now gently tease your Hoya out of the pot – sometimes you will have to cut the pot to remove it as Hoya roots are well-designed to grip to even the flattest surfaces.
Once you have removed your Hoya, gently tease some of the roots out of the main rootball to help them settle into the new home, then lay it down gently while you prepare the new pot.
Simply put a layer of substrate in the pot (maybe a half an inch to an inch layer) then place your Hoya carefully into the pot, adding compost carefully around the roots before filling near to the top of the pot.
Gently firm the compost down, adding a little more to top it up but making sure you don’t fill the pot all the way to the top. Water your Hoya well, allowing any excess to drain away before putting it back in pride of place!
Leaving a small gap up to the rim of the pot makes it easier to water your Hoya, as it allows you to ‘puddle’ the plant before allowing the water to drain off.

Re-potting is a good opportunity for you to check your Hoya for pests and disease. Don’t be afraid to trim off any damaged or diseased vines or roots – this will help prevent spread of any diseases. Inspecting the roots and rootball will help you spot any unwanted guests, like mealy bugs.
Read my Hoya Care Guide for more info.
I hope this helps,
Kindest regards,

Henry
Molly’s Tropical Plants

A few weeks ago, I ran a poll to see which was your favourite image on Molly’s Tropical Plants in 2011. All the entries attracted some votes, but most of you voted for the clear winner.
You loved the fact that the image gave you an insight into how the Hoyas you keep at home provide food for insects in their natural habitats.

The Best Three Images

Below are the 2 runners up, and the winning image. There are no prizes for this as it was just a bit of fun, but I want to congratulate my mother on taking the winning photo!

Thanks again for voting and I hope you enjoy the images once again!

3rd Place – Hoya lobbii

Read More

2nd Place – Hibiscus Flower

Read More

Winner – Elephant Hawk Moth Feeding on Hoya carnosa

by April Zobel
More Wildlife Images by April Zobel

Well, two exciting things happened today.

1. Chicken

Firstly I ordered my first ever Chicken Coop and Run.

An Egg a Day

I want to keep 3 chickens and reckon if I pick the right breeds (probably Light Sussex) I could get at least an egg a day, which would be plenty for me and my family. I’ve already leveled off some ground where I will lay some concrete slabs, as well as leaving some of the ground bare. They’ll have the run of the garden, as well of the security of their coop, so hopefully they will settle in well.

What Came First?

In my case, the chicken! I have friends who keep poultry so I know what I need to do to look after my new egg-producing friends. I just can’t wait for the first egg, which I shall crack ceremoniously in my favourite little egg pan!

No Cock a Doodle Doo!

I don’t intend to have a cockerel as I don’t want to upset my sleep, let alone my neighbours’. Hopefully it will be quite a few years before our first chickens have expired, but when they do, we may think about rearing new chickens, but will more than likely resort to buying them in again, fully vaccinated and at a good size.

2. Vegetables – My Veg Seeds are Ordered!

The second good thing that happened today also involves my vegetable garden. Like a lot of you, the time had come for me to sort my seed order out for the year. Have you done yours yet? Whether you are shopping for bargains from last year’s stock or buying new seed, you need to get your skates on, especially if you want to get your potatoes chitting.

This Year’s Menu

This year, I’ve decided to grow fewer different types of veg, but more of each type. I guess this is what experience brings – grow more of the crops you actually use most and that grow best. This is exactly what I’m doing. I’ve cut the variety down, but increased quantities to make sure I have plenty of my favourites for as long as possible. I would also like some to store over-winter to ensure an all-year supply of quality, home grown veg.

Hi Molly,
Thanks for your instructive and helpful page. I was wondering how to buy hoyas from you (though in the future rather than immediately). Your shop link doesn’t list them.
Thanks again,
Regards,
Angela

Hi Angela,
We’ll be back online at the beginning of March, but if it is at all frosty, we may not be posting until a little after then!
You can get the latest updates through my Newsletter – just enter your email address and a couple more details.
Subscribe to Molly’s Newsletter HERE.
I hope this helps,
Kind regards,
Henry
Molly’s Tropical Plants

Which Hoyas climb best?

hi,
which hoyas are good climbers?

Hi there,
Thanks for your message.
Many Hoya can climb, but the easiest and generally most vigorous are Hoya carnosa and Hoya pubicalyx ‘Silver Pink’
As with many Hoya, these 2 have adapted root systems designed to secure themselves into nooks and crannies. In their natural habitat they quickly grow vertically up tall tree trunks, making their way into the forest canopy to settle in and flower.
If you want to cover larger spaces, try a combination of Hoyas. Avoid the shrubbier ones, like Hoya odorata, but I’ve even had Hoya polystachya growing into a brick wall so don’t be afraid to experiment!
Kind regards,
Henry
Molly’s Tropical Plants

Pruning Hoyas

My Hoya has become over grown, can I cut it back? If so how far ? Thank you jmt

Hi Judith,
Thanks for your message.
I should be able to help but need to know which Hoya you have to be sure.

Different Hoyas react differently to pruning, but I’ll assume you’ve got Hoya carnosa, which is the most common Hoya.

For general pruning, use a sharp knife or scissors to cut the parent plant back to a shape you prefer, taking care not to remove too many vines that have flower spurs (see the image in the bottom right of this webpage: http://www.mollystropicalplants.com/hoya-home/large-potted-plan/ ) The flower spurs will continue to bear flowers throughout the life of your Hoya.
Don’t cut more than 1/3 of your vines each time you prune – Hoyas can cope with a lot of abuse, but too much stress can affect future flowering performance and besides, you can always trim more next year, but you can’t glue it back on!
I always cut back to older, woody growth, removing the vine just after a leaf node. Not only does this help promote new growth of the parent, but the removed section will make a very easy cutting!

You will end up with a collection of cuttings from which to grow new Hoyas to give to your friends and family, or fill in other corners of your home!
Visit this link for more info on taking cuttings: http://www.mollystropicalplants.com/2011/01/05/taking-cuttings/

The red line on this picture shows where I would cut this Hoya polystachya, leaving a short length of vine with the remaining leaf:

I hope this helps. Remember to send me a photo of your Hoya if you want more accurate info, and to make sure yours is Hoya carnosa.

Kindest regards,
Henry
Molly’s Tropical Plants

Which is the Best Hoya for a Beginner?

Whenever I get asked which is the best Hoya for a beginner, the same 2 Hoyas immediately springing to mind. Without doubt, Hoya carnosa is a strong contender, being so simple to grow, and producing umbels of porcelain pink flower umbels that fill rooms with their sweet, heady aroma. My other choice is Hoya pubicalyx ‘Silver Pink’ which is another very good Hoya for the beginner. It has a similar habit to Hoya carnosa, but generally longer, more elongate leaves with more striking flecking. Hoya pubicalyx ‘Silver Pink’ also produces sensational blooms, but with a deeper purple hue and a slightly mustier fragrance.
Now I’ve made my suggestions, it is time for you to decide….

Hoya carnosa

Hoya carnosa is by far the most common Hoya. Hoya carnosa is always the plant that people refer to when they talk about their ‘Grandmother’s Hoya’ that has been passed down the generations. There are several varieties of Hoya carnosa, but here we will consider the classic, original plant.

What’s so special about Hoya carnosa?

Hoya carnosa is very easy to grow. It is a tough plant that will grow on in all but the most unsuitable conditions. In 2011, I had one in my UK garden in a tropical area along with a Ficus elastica. I also have some dotted around my house in various positions, some bright, some rather dull.

Tough Tropical Plants

Perhaps the harshest place I currently have my Hoya carnosa is in my slightly heated greenhouse, where temperatures have been as low as 2°C at night time. The specimen in there is doing rather well, and does not look affected by the cool weather at all.

Hoya pubicalyx

Hoya pubicalyx ‘Silver Pink’ is, in my opinion, more vigorous and rewarding than its sister, Hoya pubicalyx ‘Red Button’. Hoya pubicalyx ‘Silver Pink’ grows similarly to Hoya carnosa, but the vines tend to be more rigid, meaning it needs training earlier, when the vines are nice and supple, to avoid any damage.

Easy Tropical Vine

Hoya pubicalyx ‘Silver Pink’ really is an easy tropical vine. It will quickly send out adventitious vines that will attach themselves to pretty much anything they can wrap themselves around. After the vines have settled, leaves will form and the vines will become more rigid.

Contrasting Hoya

Hoya pubicalyx ‘Silver Pink’ provides a beautiful contrast when partnered with Hoya carnosa. Both can be trained through a trellis, or entwined through a larger ‘host’ plant, enabling you to benefit from the both of their foliage and flowers.

Dear Molly.
I am hoping you might help me with a problem with my hoya bella plant.
I have 2 large matching plants that came with our house 27 years ago. They are in an enclosed heated porch that faces west. They have many vines and are about 10-12 feet long and bloom regularly starting in April through August. They are a very dark green with white flowers. The other day I noticed on one plant several leaves that appeared \”sprinkled\” with a mist.
It is a dried, clear, crusty covering. Also there appears to be some small brownish dots on the vines.
Any ideas what this is and how I should treat it?
I would certainly appreciate hearing from you. These are cherished plants, especially when I found out my mother-in-law had given them to the previous owner of our house.
Vickie
Oregon

Hi Vickie,
No problem, and thanks for the pictures.
The first thing to point out is that your Hoya is not Hoya bella. It looks like Hoya carnosa to me. Check out this link for a picture of a nice little Hoya bella HERE

My first thought is that the marks are splashes of nectar, or perhaps remnants of aphids or similar .
For treatment, I would suggest trying to gently remove the marks with a soft, damp cloth or even kitchen towel.
If this doesn’t work, please let me know and I’ll put my thinking cap on again. Sometimes the thickening wax on the leaves can be a sign of fungal infection or other stress.
Kindest regards,
Henry
Molly’s Tropical Plants

Over-Watering Hoyas

Hi Molly – I am so sad. I had a beautiful Hoya plant with pink ‘plastic-looking’ flowers and I think I may have overwatered it. I know you said you can’t dry them out, but is there anything else you can recommend I do. I did not realize one shouldn’t water in the winter. I brought it home from work where it sat on top of a cabinet and flowered every spring. It didn’t flower this past spring at home, and now the leaves have started to turn yellow. I think it’s because I watered it as my other plants
Any advice would be so greatly appreciated.
Melanie

Hi Melanie,
The best thing I can suggest is to repot the Hoya immediately into something like orchid bark, which is extremely well-draining.
Remove any dead or diseased stems and leaves, and keep your Hoya on the warm side but not directly over a radiator, where it could perish very quickly.
If you Hoya is large, it may have good enough roots to cope, and may recover. If it is a small plant your chances are worse.
Keep your fingers crossed and hopefully you will see some fresh new growth, which is a great sign of recovery.
To help prevent further problems, bookmark this Page!
Kind regards,
Henry
Molly’s Tropical Plants

Caring for Bead Plants

Do you know how to care for a bead plant. I have had 3 plants and I keep killing them.
I have over watered and underwatered, What am I doing wrong Thank You

Hi there,
You should treat your plant like a succulent by planting in free-draining sandy compost, and by watering sparingly.
Keep it out of draughts on a bright spot that gets indirect sunlight.
Check out this link for general Cactus and Succulent Care Advice.
They are tough plants, so can cope with being dry for long periods.
I even had one growing in a cactus arrangement outdoors in the UK last summer, where it did fine. I grew it in a big pot with a 50/50 mix of potting compost and sand to make sure it drained well. Check out this Page.
I hope this helps,
Kindest regards,
Henry
Molly’s Tropical Plants

Buying Hoya Plants

Hi Molly
I am trying to purchase a Hoya carnosa plant for a friend please can you help

Hi there,
I will be selling plants from 1st March, weather permitting. The night temperatures are too cold in the UK to guarantee safe transit.
Please contact me in March and I will be happy to help.
Kindest regards,
Henry
Molly’s Tropical Plants

Growing Hoyas Outdoors

Hi Molly,
I have just bought 4 2″ pots with different hoya babies in them.
I am about to organise a pergola out from the house which will be on the north side of the house, getting all the afternoon sun till about 4pm I would like to put these hoya babies in the pergola and was wondering if being in Toowoomba (Eastern Australia) with the colder winters would be too cold for them outside.
could probably keep them inside but would really rather they be outside where the insects and bees can benefit as well as I thank you for your help Jane

Hi Jane,
For tough Hoya like carnosa, pubicalyx and some of the Chinese varieties, you should be OK for most of the year, but you will have to bring them inside when the night temps get a bit cooler for you, from May to September.
Some Hoyas are more delicate so unless you know which ones you’ve got, I’d be tempted to keep them inside for most of the year.
Another thing to note is that they will hate direct sun. This is a sure fire way t fry them, so make sure they are given bright but indirect light.
Imagine a tropical rainforest’s dappled shade.
Thanks,
Henry
Molly’s Tropical Plants

Thank you, I wondered if your site was just for looks but am so happy that you have replied I will keep them inside for 12 months, and see how they go Thanks again
Jane

It is possible to grow Senecio out side in the UK during the summer, but you must bring it in when night temperatures get to around 10°C.

Senecio is a nice addition to a cactus arrangement, and can help add interest to your garden.

Mealy Bugs

There are many different types of Mealy Bug, all favouring the warm, humid conditions that you want to provide your Tropical Plants with.

Long Tailed Mealy Bugs

The particular type that is currently inhabiting my neglected Dendrobium Orchid, is the Long Tailed Mealy Bug, appropriately-named due to its long tail.

Waxy Layers

Similarly to Scale Insects, Mealy Bugs use a waxy layer to protect themselves and their newly hatched offspring, whilst feeding on your plant.
The key to treating your plants is to break down this waxy barrier to expose the Mealy Bugs, but first you must find them all.

Fluffy Pests

Look out for fluffy gatherings of Mealy Bugs near leaf axils, as you can see in this image.

Keep Mealy Bugs in Check

Mealy bugs can be a pain but here is an easy way to keep them in check. If you want to completely overhaul your plant, you will need to change the compost and clean the roots. I’m just going to see how I get on by removing any adults I come across. If the population does not decrease, I’ll take more drastic action.

How to Remove Mealy Bugs

Here is a short video showing you how I remove Mealy Bugs from my Dendrobium Orchid using methylated spirits and a cotton bud.

Prevention is Better than Cure!

Regular ongoing checks will need to be done to monitor the situation.
Mealy Bug prevention is usually straightforward. I let my guard down when I took in an orchid from a friend, but this is no excuse! I should have been more vigilant!
Prevention involves a close eye on your new additions, some regular TLC for your plants and the provision of a healthy, well-balanced environment, which this Dendrobium Orchid has not had!

I have a Hoya cutting that I have been trying to root. It contains 2 leaves attached to a stem, the leaves look like lime-green lily pads, 3-5 inches across. I have the 3 inches below them stem in perlite with rooting hormone, but I haven’t seen anything yet after 2 weeks. Would it work better to try and root each leaf individually?
Thanks,

Reply

Hi there,
Take a look at my post on Taking Cuttings. This should give you the guidance you need.
Many thanks,
Molly’s Tropical Plants

Dropping Hoya Leaves

Many years ago, I inherited a hoya that has to be at least 100 years old. I have it in a pot with a 5 foot trellis with dense foliage. It has been in this pot for several years. Recently, this late winter the leaves started dropping. So many have dropped, I can see through it. I’m troubled as to what might be going on, as I haven’t done anything different. However, 2 summers ago we had bees burrowing down in the soil. I was using bee spray on them and at entry point with soil. Afterwards I would water very well. Could the bee spray be killing it two years later? I would like to re-pot it, but don’t want to cause any more trauma. PLEASE HELP!

Reply

Thanks for your message – I am so sorry to hear about your Hoya.
I doubt the bee spray will be causing a problem now – what you describe seems very much like cold damage, or possibly over-watering. The best thing to do is to send me a pic of your plant and I can try and confirm this. Please also let me know which country / state you are in.
Hoyas do drop their leaves when troubled, but can recover. I’ve had a Hoya that was scorched and it dropped all its leaves. I cut a few of the stems back and it recovered nicely.
When I’ve seen a pic, I’ll tell you what I would do to sort it out.

Kindest regards,

Molly’s Tropical Plants

Poorly Hoya

I’m trying to find out what’s wrong with my hoya plant and I came across you website.
I have a Hoya Carnosa plant that I inherited and it is about 75 years old. It bloomed for the first time about 8 years ago and has bloomed ever year since then-except for this year. Instead, the hanging leaves are dying.
I have never seen the plant so sparse in my life. There are some fresh dark leaves at the top, but for the most part, the leaves are in bad shape. I currently keep it in a bedroom next to a window and it gets moderate-light indirect sunlight.
I water it lightly about once a week. From what you write on our blog, it appears it might need more sunlight, but the amount it gets did not seem to have affected it these past years… The only place it will get more sunlight would be outside where I’m reluctant to keep it because of the temperature.
I’d have to move it outside in the day and inside at night and I was told they don’t like to be moved. Is that true?
The idea hit me that it might need to be repotted.
It has been in the same pot for as long as it has been in my care (about 7 years) and for as long as I can remember before then. Once they reach adulthood, how often do they need to be repotted?
Based on what I’ve said, do you think it needs repotting? Do you have any ideas as to what might be the problem? Perhaps a location change? Watering more? less? It being so old, it’s got a lot of sentimental value and I’m terrified I might kill it!
If you have any tips for me, I’d appreciate it!

Reply

Hi there,
Thanks for your message.
Concentrating on the poor foliage, the only things that come to mind are:
Over-watering.
Cold draught from the window if you live in a cold area.
Pest / Disease

I would suggest cutting back any dead or dying growth, repotting into a good quality compost mix and watering with rainwater for the time-being. The new compost should feed it a little and give it a boost. Cutting back the dying steam will encourage new growth. Hoya carnosa does well in quite poor light, so don’t worry about moving it outside. Possibly the draught from your window could be affecting it if it is cold outside, so try closing the window for a period.

Hope this helps.

Many thanks,

Molly’s Tropical Plants

Reply

Now that the weather has gotten warmer I moved my hoya out to its favorite spot on the deck. It does not seem to be losing anymore leaves, and I hope to repot it soon. My sister has indicated she would like a clipping from it. Can you tell me how to take a couple cuttings from it?
Thank-you,

Reply

I’m glad your Hoya has stabilized – hopefully it will go from strength to strength!
As for cuttings – your Hoya should be nice ands easy to take cuttings from.
For detailed info about cuttings, visit this link:
http://www.mollystropicalplants.com/2011/01/05/taking-cuttings/
For the shorter version, which should still be effective, read on….

Find a healthy stem, then cut just below a set of leaves to form a 6 inch (or so) cutting.
Pop the cutting in a glass of water with the freshly cut end at the bottom of the glass.
Keep out of direct light and wait for about 2 weeks, after which time you should see roots.
When the roots have grown a little (maybe about 2 inches) pot it up into good compost and water well.
Job done!!

I always change the water every few days to keep it nice and fresh.
The roots will probably grow from the very tip of the cut end as well as along the stem, especially at the leaf nodes.

I’d love to know how you get on, so please keep in touch!!

Kindest regards,

Molly’s Tropical Plants

This post is based in my experience with Hermann’s Tortoises, which I have kept for many years. Do not apply this experience or advice to any other species of tortoise, as it may not be in their best interests. For example, trying to hibernate a tropical tortoise can lead to a slow, cold death, so please do your own research and make sure you are doing what is best for your species of tortoise.

Also, please take note that I am based in the UK, so any weather situations or comments relate to my climate, not necessarily yours!

Hermann’s Tortoises

I have kept Hermann’s Tortoises for many years. I try to provide as natural a habitat as possible and do my best to provide living conditions that they would find in the wild. With this in mind I have a good sized enclosure which is mostly a sandy dirt with tufts of grass, but also has various substrates and contours, a hutch, a shallow pool and a huge array of weeds and grasses for them to eat and hide in.

I hibernate all my tortoises as I believe it replicates natural behaviour. Of course, you could overwinter a Hermann’s tortoise under artificial light and heat, and it would be perfectly happy, but I feel that allowing my tortoises to go through hibernation gives them the best lives possible. Hibernated tortoises tend not to get overweight, they tend to be more active in spring and can be more virile. Hibernation also provides interest to you, the keeper, as you make the extra effort to care for your animals as best you can.

I have hibernated my Hermann’s tortoises successfully every winter since I have had them. I have read many books and listened to many people to come to my own conclusion that hibernating my tortoises in a fridge is the safest and most reliable way to hibernate Hermann’s tortoises in the UK.

Why Hibernate Tortoises in the Fridge?

Temperature Stability

In the UK, winter temperatures can get below -15°C and above 15°C, which means relying on the weather to provide safe hibernating temperatures could be a serious mistake, so think again!!

Tortoises do not enjoy being frozen! Exposing your tortoise to freezing temperatures for even short periods can can cause blindness and even death. In a fridge, inside my home, the temperature remains within a degree of 5°C which is cold enough to keep my tortoises in a solid sleep, whilst being safely above freezing to allow for minor fluctuations in temperature. I keep the fridge in the corner of my back room, which is cool but not freezing, not used much so it’s peaceful, and is nice and dark with the curtains closed.

Fridges Freeze Too!

Do not keep your fridge full of tortoises in the garage or outside! If ambient temperature drop below 5°C, the internal temperature in the fridge will become lower too! Keep your fridge in a room that is guaranteed not to get below 5°C to prevent freezing your tortoises.

Safety

My fridge protects my tortoises from any kind of rodent or pest attack. Not only are my tortoises safe from predators, but they are also protected from burglars as they are behind several doors and locks.

Inspect your Tortoises Daily

Hibernating Tortoises are easy to inspect by simply drawing the boxes out each day and prodding each tortoise in a leg. You will see a reaction, with your tortoise drawing their leg back in, which is a good sign your tortoise is having a healthy winter. When you carry out your daily inspection, always check for an emptied bladder. If your tortoise wets its bed, get it out immediately and force it to wake fully with a heat lamp and a tepid bath. You must now care for your tortoise over winter, making sure it is kept warm and well-fed. Remember to add Nutrobal or similar as your tortoise will not be subject to much natural light.

Dehydration

In the 6 weeks or so leading up to hibernation, as my tortoises are emptying their digestive tracts, I make sure they are very well hydrated.

Even if they don’t fancy a drink I always bathe them in cool water every day or so. This ensures they are well hydrated and have the full bladder that is required during hibernation.

Preparing Your Fridge

Although I cleaned my fridge before it went into the garage this spring, it is still filthy, so needs tidying up!

Clean the Fridge

Clean out the fridge thoroughly. Use an antibacterial spray or similar, and make sure you get into all the nooks and crannies. Always dry the fridge well too, to prevent it being too humid and inviting possible moulds or germs in.

Here is the Nicely Polished Fridge

If you use any chemical cleaners, make sure they are tortoise-friendly, and always wipe around with a damp cloth as a finishing touch, before drying all the surfaces thoroughly.

Balancing your Fridge

I always run my fridge for 24 hours before even thinking of adding my tortoises. Here you can see that I put a couple of wine bottles of chilled water in the fridge to represent my tortoises’ body weight and mass, which helps stabilise the temperature easily. I keep the bottles of water in all winter as I believe they help buffer any unexpected temperature fluctuations.

Prepare the Boxes

I use shoe boxes or similar and pack them well with hay. I always use dust-free hay to provide a soft, secure bed that is as comfortable as possible. Make sure the boxes are not in direct contact with any of the cold surfaces in the fridge. Do this by using bubblewrap or newspaper, or double-boxing your tortoises.

It is a good idea to put the beds in the fridge to acclimatise before you actually add your tortoises. This will allow the temperature to be as stable as possible. When everything is in and I am confident that the temperature has stabilised to 5°C it is time to think about adding the tortoises!

Putting the Tortoises In

I keep weight and health records of all my tortoises, and make sure they are healthy, fit and clean before putting them in to hibernation. If you see signs of ill health, do not hibernate your tortoise! Instead contact your vet and seek advice! My tortoises are all good weights with no health issues, so we’re good to go. They have fasted in cool, then cold conditions for long enough to clear their guts, which is essential, and are now pretty much dozing.

The Fridge Door

As you can see, I put a stick in the fridge door to ensure it does not close fully. This does not seem to affect the temperature significantly and is a safeguard I take for my own peace of mind. Even though the tortoises are hardly breathing, I always take steps to ensure good ventilation. For example, I vent the fridge at least twice each day by opening the door and wafting or blowing inside. Combined with the health checks, this activity takes about 2 minutes per day, so is time really well spent!

The Waiting Game

Now it is all about the wait. When the end of April approaches I’ll start thinking about preparing their outdoor enclosure for the year. The end of May is usually a good time to wake the tortoises up as we begin to get adequate sunshine and night temperatures to allow our tortoises to live unaided outdoors again. Hopefully there will be plenty of dandelions to fatten my tortoises up again so that they are in as good condition for hibernating next year!

I’ll add more to this post as times goes by, but in the meantime, please feel free to ask me questions – I am here to help!